New France

July 27, 2013

Louisbourg, Nova Scotia

We went to the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site.

From 1713 to 1768 the fortified port of Louisbourg was struggled for by France and Great Britain. It was a center of fishery and trade, colonial capitol and fortified port.

The place was eventually destroyed and sat in ruins for over 200 years until the Canadian government chose to build a one-quarter partial reconstruction of this 18th-century French fortress on Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia.

The work required an interdisciplinary effort by archaeologists, historians, engineers, and architects. The reconstruction was aided by unemployed coal miners from the industrial Cape Breton area, many of whom learned French masonry techniques from the 18th century and other skills to create an accurate replica. Where possible, many of the original stones were used in the reconstruction.

We came here on the first Cultural Fete weekend to enjoy the special activities.

Ile Royale formed part of the larger colony of New France.

These people are waiting for the opening ceremony as they stand near the King's Bastion which houses the Governor's apartment, chapel, and military quarters.

Opening Ceremonies began with shooting off cannons into the fog.

Inside the King's Bastion is the Chapel and governor's apartment.

The local governor in Louisbourg was subservient to the governor-general of New France; however the difficulties of travel and communication meant that Ile Royale's governor usually corresponded directly with his superior in France, the Minister of the Marine.

French King Louis XV's portrait hangs in the room where justice is served.

On a partition in each room of the governor's apartment are several telephones for tourists. I pick up the phone and listen to a short description of the facts of the scene in either French or English.
It is weird to walk into a room where many silent people are standing holding a phone to the ear.

This is the governor's bed and favorite chair.

Public humiliation is for the thief who stole the wine, performed convincingly by resident thespians.

The French Official reads the charges and then asks the crowd what punishment fits the crime. One response is "Off with his head". Another is "Give him the wine and let him go home." Everyone laughs at this.

The costumes and improvisation are living history and educate about living in French Louisbourg in 1744, a year before the British capture the place.

The man on the right is Il Nu, which in Canada means First Nation people. He told me that his job was a scout; he wore leather shoes but described how he only wore moccasins in the forest in 1744 so that that he would not be tracked.

In the Grandchamp restaurant I had homemade vegetable soup in a pewter dish with one huge serving spoon to eat, and a big white dish towel to tie around my neck.

Eighteenth century restaurant.

We saw an upper class dance rehearsal. About 100 people in 1744 Louisbourg were upper class and copied the fashions in Versailles. Every year six or seven new dances had to be taught by the Dancing Master. If a Lady could not be present at the rehearsal, a servant maid could take her place.

On the harpsichord this music is played. The contradance moves are described. The style of dance is more like country dance today, sedate and designed to socialize. By the end of the one dance each person has danced with all the other dancers and has had a chance to converse.

In this fisherman's hut the servants work the woven cloth while they sing a milling song; this is done to pass the time as they make the woven wool tighter and more supple. They push it back and forth in a quick rhythm on the table.

After the milling song demonstration the fisherman welcomed us. Louisbourg was a popular port, and was the third busiest only behind Boston, Massachusetts, and Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It was also popular for its exporting of fish, and other products made from fish, such as cod-liver oil.

The fishing industry was three times greater than the fur trade in 1744. The North Atlantic fishing trade employed over ten thousand people, and Louisbourg was seen as the ‘nursery for seamen.’

There are 150 volunteer actors in Louisbourg this weekend who mostly stay in character for 1744. One asked me where I was from and I answered California. He said, "Where's that?" When I tried to explain, he said " Oh it must be that Spanish Colony."

These resident musicians from St Johns, New Brunswick, specialize in early music and are preparing for a concert Saturday night. We are invited to listen and ask questions during the rehearsal.

In early times one might own 30 recorders, each in a different key. This recorder is down a semi-tone and won't sound good played with a piano. A= 412, not A=440.

This beautiful sounding portable harpsichord has a simple plucking system.

A model of a French 74 - gun warship was on display, scale 1/36.

This ship was developed by French Naval architects in 1737 and this class of warship became the standard battleship for the rest of the 18th century. In 1758, three were sunk in the harbour while defending Louisbourg during the second siege.

Although I spent two days in historic Louisbourg, it would be easy to spend more time here.

We drove around the Louisbourg harbor to see the lighthouse.

We looked across the harbor back at our campground in the little town.

I walked a few steps from my T@b down to the boats docked near our campground.